Bhubaneswar At 75: Celebrating Bhubaneswar’s Journey As The Capital

Bhubaneswar At 75: Celebrating Bhubaneswar’s Journey As The Capital

Over the decades, Bhubaneswar has evolved into the largest city in Odisha, establishing itself as a key commercial, educational, and sports centre in eastern India. On 19th August, 2024 Bhubaneswar celebrated its 75 years as the capital as it officially became the capital of the state in 1949 August 19, two years after India gained independence from British rule in 1947. Prior to this, the historic city of Cuttack had served as the capital of Odisha. The modern city of Bhubaneswar was designed by the German-Jewish architect Otto Konigsberger in 1946. 

The then Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru’s noble vision did not fully materialise in the master plan prepared by Koenigsberger. Koenigsberger and the state government had differing visions for Bhubaneswar. The 1948 plan, initially attributed to him, went through numerous revisions as various officials contributed to its evolution. Shortly after taking on the Bhubaneswar project, Koenigsberger moved to New Delhi to join the Union Health Ministry, gradually reducing his involvement in the city's development. Julius Vaz, the government's chief architect, who had been working closely with Koenigsberger on the master plan despite their disagreements, then took on a more significant role and designed several key buildings, including those in the Capital complex.

Popularly pronounced as ‘Bhonsor’ by the locality, Bhubaneswar was once a dense forest known as ‘Ekamra Kanan’. The name "Bhubaneswar" is a shortened form of "Tribhubaneswar," which means "God of the Universe" (referring to Lord Shiva), and was simplified for easier pronunciation. The name Tribhubaneswar itself evolved from "Tosali" after the construction of the Lingaraj Temple during the height of Saivism in Odisha.

Originally envisioned as the administrative hub of Odisha post-independence, it has grown far beyond its initial design. Initially planned for just 20,000 residents, the city has expanded into a major tier-two city in India, surpassing its original blueprint. Also known as the "temple city" because it once had around 700 temples. The city is home to many well-preserved sandstone temples, including Kalingan temples from the 6th–13th century CE. 

In the early 19th century, when the British took over Orissa (now Odisha) from the Marathas, the region was fragmented, with parts attached to Bengal, the Madras Presidency, and the Central Provinces. This fragmentation persisted until the early 20th century, even after the formation of Bihar and Orissa as a single state in 1912. 

However, not all Odia-speaking regions were included in this new state, sparking a fervent movement among Odias for a unified province based on linguistic and cultural identity. Led by legendary figures like Madhusudan Das and supported by various groups, including Utkal Sammilani, the movement gained momentum. 

Despite the challenges, Utkal Sammilani continued to highlight the cultural, social, and political issues faced by Odias, relentlessly advocating for a separate state. It wasn't until the early 1930s that the British Indian administration approved the creation of Orissa Province, largely influenced by Simon’s Statutory Commission, which recommended uniting the Odia-speaking regions into a single province.

The creation of the new state of Orissa faced significant challenges, particularly regarding its boundaries. The Madras Presidency opposed the loss of its southern territories, delaying the state's formation. The breakthrough came with the Hubback Commission's recommendations in 1933 and the personal intervention of Maharaja Krushna Chandra Gajapati Narayan Deo of Paralakhemundi, who travelled to London to advocate for the state and agreed to divide his estate. The order for Orissa's formation was passed on 3rd March 1936, and the state officially came into existence on 1st April 1936.

However, the selection of the administrative capital sparked another debate. The Hubback Commission considered Berhampur, Angul, Puri, and Cuttack, but each had its limitations. Ultimately, Cuttack's historical significance made it a strong contender, though it faced infrastructural challenges. The onset of World War II paused the decision, but in 1945, Governor Hawthorne Lewis and his advisor B.K. Gokhale revived the discussion. Gokhale, recognizing Bhubaneswar's potential for future expansion and its proximity to Cuttack, persuaded Harekrushna Mahatab, who supported the idea. By September 1946, Mahatab, now the Premier of Orissa, secured enough political support to make Bhubaneswar the new capital, while Cuttack remained the commercial hub with the State High Court and Utkal University. 

Bhubaneswar Has The Richest Sources Of Evidential History

-Anil Dhir (Historian & Convenor Intach, Bhubaneswar Chapter)

Describing his earlier bond with the undertones of nostalgia, famous historian Anil Dhir remembers the sheer joy of cycling to school, with the ups and downs in the roads, meeting and greeting people on the way, visiting friends at their homes, summer and winter holidays. He said, “The coming of the circus to town was a big event as were the annual exhibitions that happened regularly. Even a visit to the Aerodrome (as we would call it) or the Railway Station were small adventures.  Kwality Ice Cream, from the small stall outside the Burma General Store was a treat to look forward to. It was brought all the way from Calcutta. The cakes, biscuits and bread from Kapoor’s Bakery and later Sajitha are still remembered.  My house was by the railway line, I have so many fond memories of the steam engines chugging the trains. Puri Express would have two of these smoke spewing giants. Hundreds of vultures would descend to gorge on the cows that got killed by the trains. The calls of the jackals, foxes and hyenas would send shivers down our spines. There was hardly a day when we did not encounter a snake or two. Even pythons. Today, even the sparrows and the crows are gone.”

According to Dhir, there was no single event that can be said to have shaped the history of this city. Many of the events that have shaped the City’s history are recorded and available for historians in multitude forms. Bhubaneswar has some of the richest sources of evidential history among any Indian city. “The Ashokan period, Buddhist and Jain eras, the Shaivites, Vaishnavites and Sakta   predominance periods  have shaped the city during their respective times. From the Rock Edicts at Dhauli, the ruins of Sishupalgarh, the monuments ranging from the Khandagiri caves to the multitude of temples in the Old Town, to the evolution of the New Capital, Bhubaneswar has a readable timeline of history. The bonhomie that was so effervescent during the festivals is now gone. The annual pujas were something to look forward to. Even among the different communities like the Sikhs, Punjabis, and Marwaris, Bengalis etc. , the festivals and celebrations were  mixed affairs. Everyone knew everyone. Even marriages were big occasions. Fellow feeling and brotherhood among community members was strong and deep. Alas, all this  has now gone,” he added.

The City had an identity of being a model city which  was the administrative capital of the state. The initial plans were of a limited population with support services. The idyllic settings of the new capital, between the rivers and the Chandaka forest surrounding it, as was planned has now gone awry. He said, “The rapid expansion, the absorption of all the surrounding villages and hamlets, deforestation, diversion and filling up of the streams and water bodies have spelled the death knell of the planned city. Bhubaneswar is no more the laid back small city that it was. The gentle and placid existence of its populace is now gone. It has seriously affected  the living conditions of the residents.”

While describing the challenges that Bhubaneswar faced, Dhir notified the mass influx of people from all over the state. He said, “While most came for employment opportunities, many wanted   a small piece of the state capital which they could call their own. Bhubaneswar could not just absorb the steep and sheer increase of population. Public services like sanitation, sewerage, drinking water etc. could just not cope up. The proliferation of slums was allowed to happen. Industrial centres were planned and set up haphazardly, all of which failed. The city managers have not been able to overcome the challenges. Rather, they have made things worse.  Even today, there is no long term plan envisaged.”

When asked about any particular landmarks or areas in Bhubaneswar that holds a special place in his heart Dhir stated that the undulating landscape is all gone. The landmarks like Capital Market are now overshadowed with construction. Even the Capital Police Station is now dwarfed with tall buildings on each side. Even the iconic Catholic Church is now hidden behind the buildings.   

With the present rate of growth, we shall see it being merged into a twin city with Cuttack. The Metro will be a big game changer. “I am sure after the Cuttack stretch is laid, the Metro will expand its network to Khurda and Puri. This will see suburbs developing on the lines of Gurgaon   and Noida.  Bhubaneswar will lose most of its identity both as a heritage city and as a model capital city that was planned post-independence.  It will be just another bursting at the seams city. I would like to see another satellite city being developed on the lines of New Raipur and Navi Mumbai. At the same time the ancient legacy of it being a temple city should be retained. We have missed the bus for getting the status of a Unesco Heritage Tag for the Ekamrakhestra region. It will never happen,” he signed off.

Bhubaneswar A City Of Happiness

-Prof. Asha Hans (Former Professor Political Science, Utkal University) 

For Prof. Asha Hans, Bhubaneswar represents the joy and happiness that every citizen wants to attain. She was one of its first citizens when her parents moved from the city of Quetta in West Pakistan to this new capital which welcomed them with open arms. She said, “My uncle, a builder, set up the Master Construction Company and under his expertise the new city of Bhubaneswar grew to what it is today. It was a city that I came to, when the greenery, the exotic plants, the millions of fireflies made our life a city of happiness. A city, where we lived in a mud hut, initially in front of what is known as the ‘market building’. There were no air-conditioners or refrigerators but the breeze was cool and the water was pure. Bhubaneswar was an environmental paradise where snakes crept into the house to find shelter, the jackals were noisy at night when you wanted to sleep.”

Later Asha and her family moved to another well known place, Master Canteen, so named as it housed the Master Construction Company. The house here was still a mud house, but huge or maybe it seemed to her as a child as she described. Master Canteen became the hub of politicians and bureaucrats, with Hare Krushna Mehtab, Katju, Nayar and many others met to lay the future of the city. “In front of it was the house where Julius Vaz the architect lived. He had a small pool with lotus flowers where my first photograph was taken. It was also the first time I met Nehru as a child and sat on his lap. Later, it was on this road leading to the Assembly that I saw Nehru and Kamraj in an open Jeep,” she added.

Bhubaneswar was expanding and infrastructure developing the old Assembly giving way to the new one. Her old school (St. Joseph’s Convent) which she entered the first day it opened its door shifted to the new site near Ram Mandir. She said, “The airport where the flying lessons were given even to women at that time (though I never learned to fly). As the city expanded the trees were cut down, and some new ones planted, the road from Master Canteen blazed gold and orange gulmohars. The fireflies reduced in numbers, the petrol fuming cars replaced the cycle-rickshaws. At each turning of history Bhubaneswar lost its green cover, Chandaka Forest was cut down.  By then we had built a house in Satya Nagar as one of the first inhabitants. In front of my house was an empty space where we played cricket and football (There were no sex wise separate teams).”

“It was a city of happiness because we lived in an environment which soothed our eyes and our spirits. It was a city of happiness as at that time no gender labels were implanted on me. It was a city of happiness as I played happily with my neighbours who cleaned the city sewers. It was a city where culture did not divide us but brought us together and a hope that it will remain so,” she signed off.     

Bhubaneswar Means Everything To Me

-Deboo Pattnaik (Veteran Entrepreneur)

According to veteran entrepreneur Bhubaneswar was a very small city and every second person knew each other. People used to move very lazily. From 12-4 pm there was no activity in the city and it was very calm and peaceful. Because most of the people were government officials and there were no commercial activities then as such. Even the shops close by 12-12:30 pm and open by 4-4:30 pm. Bhubaneswar was a very pleasant place; someone would love to enjoy every moment of it.

Describing the growth he said, “I would rate Bhubaneswar as the first planned city of Independent India. No questions or two opinions about it. Even Chandigarh came 5 years after Bhubaneswar. The city has evolved over the years. Not even one flight there was 3 flights in a week and today more than 50 flights are taking off in a single day from Bhubaneswar. So you can imagine the growth from this. Bhubaneswar used to have very few playgrounds. Among them the biggest was the present Indira Gandhi Park, which was also the parade ground then. It has focused on sports in the last 10-15 years, which has made the city the sports capital. It has also become the education hub of the country. Be it government or private, it has the bestest options for the students. Other than Utkal University and OUAT we now have at least 4-5 government Universities and Private Universities also.”

From a small administrative area in the capital, in 1997 it had a population of about 1 lakh only. The community was a mixed community irrespective of religion or cast. There was no religious or status separation. There were only 2-3 areas then in the city celebrating festivals like ganesh puja, Saraswati puja and Dussehra. But the community life was very much active as people don’t have many options for the recreational activities to participate in.

The city has seen tremendous growth and urbanisation, that’s true. That is part of the whole global phenomena. But it is also true that it has affected the identity of the city. Life has become hectic. From one end to the other end of the city it used to take us 10-15 min. but now it takes more than 45 min- 1 hour. So all these that comes with the growth and development has also come to Bhubaneswar. Being old-timers Deboo misses wide streets, cycling down the road and the afternoon cool breeze in the city. “We know the reason behind this is definitely the urbanisation and the growth. There are a number of important landmarks in the city . For example designwise the Rajmahal square has changed, Mastercanteen square has changed. The Ravindra Mandap, Assembly and the governor house are still the same and have not got lost with the growth.” he added.

“My hope for Bhubaneswar is to be one of the safest, pleasant and possibly one of the best cities of the country. When we are talking about the legacy of the city. We have almost lost earlier the strength of the city. We can still do it by focusing on the sports aspect of it and become one of the best sports destinations in the country. And that is the legacy we want the future generations to carry forward. Bhubaneswar means everything to me. Though I was not born in Bhubaneswar, I have spent probably all my life in this city. I am very fond of the city, fond of its soil, fond of its air, fond of its water and fond of its life,” he signed off.